Friday, January 28, 2011

Harrison’s Take on Our Trip to Oaxaca

Journal: Oaxaca

January 13, 2011

To start our day in the cold conditions, my sister and I watched the
1st Harry Potter movie.clip_image004 Later, we walked to the Iglesia (church) De  
Santo Domingo, viewed the gold ceilings and walls and then to the Zocolo, the town square. At the Zocolo, we went in the main church and saw all the sculptures and art work on the walls. Next, we had lunch and went to one of two museums. The first one taught us about the history of humans, our world and Mexico. The second one, teaches us about the three tribes (Zapotecs, Mixtecs and Aztecs) and Mexico's governors and presidents, Porforio Diaz and Benito Juarez, both born and raised in Oaxaca.

I do have to admit it was a long and tiring day but that didn't stop the fun.


January 14, 2011

clip_image002This morning, I had pizza, left over from last night. Then, we drove in our rental car to Ocotlan and went to the market there. That was the busiest place I've ever been. I didn't like the market because people with chickens and turkeys kept walking into me. Next, all of us got back in the car and drove to a place where they make black pottery out of natural clay and Quartz. There, we saw someone make a pitcher and I bought a clay dog. We took the car to a restaurant called Café La Olla and had a sandwich there. Then we visited Benito Jarez's house.

My favorite part of today was visiting the pottery place and seeing
them make the pitcher.

January 15, 2011

clip_image006Today is January 15th, 2011, and we had breakfast, two pieces of toast with peanut butter. Then, we watched "Despicable  Me", and we played some games while my parents were at the Oaxaca Market. Next, we went for a walk to visit some artisans, art galleries and have lunch at a delicious vegetarian restaurant. We walked to a mescale, a place where they sell and give tastes of mescal, which is alcohol from the agave plant, and played with their dogs (Tesla and Poopa).

The weirdest part of today was eating grasshoppers that were roasted in chile and lemon in the mescale.

January 16, 2011

This morning, all of us got in the car and drove to a coffee shop (with me as the navigator). Then, we drove to a wood carving place where we viewed around for four hours and ended up with a three headed clip_image008dragon. Now, for the best part, somebody told us the directions for Monte Alban (we'll get to that in a moment) and they were to follow the river all the way down. She was correct when she said to go down into the river, which we drove IN to get there. The 'river' was a very bumpy and hilarious experience. When we got to Monte Alban, a ton of ruins near Oaxaca, we got out of the car laughing and went to pay our admission and started on our tour. In our tour we climbed a big pyramid, went in a small underground tunnel and an over ground tunnel.

The most hilarious part of the day was going to Monte Alban in THE river.

January 17, 2011
clip_image010We started our day with my dad and I lighting some fire crackers that
were really a piece of junk (but when they did work, they were booming) and then went to a book store where we were looking to buy a book but they were too expensive. Today, again, we went to a place where they carve wood, except that this place I went to was excellent. They actually showed us how to carve, make natural paint, which had very vivid colors, how to fill in cracks in the wood and to paint the beautiful carvings. Later, I got a piece of wood out of the car and the people that showed us how to carve helped me carve a turtle. Then, we went to a weaving market where the people there, again, let me help them weave gorgeous table runners. On the way back, we went to the grocery store and two mescal places.

For sure, my favorite part of the day was getting to carve my own turtle.

January 18, 2011
My favorite part of the day today was going to the town of Mitla were we got to visit more ruins. There were two tombs that you got to go into and see the stone mosaics on the walls.

My favorite part of the whole trip, though, was getting to carve my own turtle out of wood and visiting the amazing ruins in Mitla and Monte Alban.

- Harrison, now back in Huatulco

Danielle’s Take on Our Trip to Oaxaca

Day 1
After we finally finished watching Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone, we left our apartment hotel and walked down to the Iglesia de Santo Domingo. We looked around and saw a family tree of Santo Domingo de Guzman painted on the ceiling and gold painteIMG_9562d walls, pillars, and altars. The newest part of this church was the altar in the chapel from the 1950s.

Next, we went into one of the many galleries lining the narrow streets. There were sculptures and paintings. Then we headed down to the Zocolo and went to a restaurant called La Primavera, definitely not the best (the hot chocolate was disgusting and the quesadillas were rubbery). I’m excited for wood burning pizzas tonight.

Our first of two museums was in one of the government buildings in the square. There we saw evolution evolving, felt (or tried to feel) the earthquakes Oaxaca gets frequently, and played some games. The next museum on our tour of the town was in the church and taught us about Mexico’s peoples throughout time. The cool thing about this museum was that it was in an old convent, so when we listened to the audio, we were told what the room we were in was used for. This convent used to house 7,000 people!

After all this walking, my legs were getting tired, so here we are now, back in the apartment.

Day 2
Today we learned moreIMG_9622 about the history and culture of Oaxaca. To start off, we went to the market in Ocotlan. There we viewed the hubbub of market day in this town half an hour from Oaxaca. Live turkeys were being held by their feet and others were tied together. As usual, the smell in the meat section made me want to barf. We bought bread in the main building, not the best-of course, and fresh fruit in one of the many stands. Mom kept on saying it reminded her of the Grand Bazaar in Turkey. To finish off with our market experience, we followed a truck with at least 30 goats stuffed inside and landed up in a special designated area for selling live cows, goats, bulls, and horses.

On our way back to Oaxaca City, we stopped off at two pottery places. The first was owned by three Agular sisters and wasn’t very impressive at all. Dona Rosa’s family owned the next. Dona Rosa was the woman who invented a way to make pottery shiny without using paint. The traditional way before her accidental discovery was to let the clay turn a chalky black. But, Dona Rosa rubbed quartz on her pottery and this made it shiny. We all got to watch a demonstration and then tour the gallery and purchase a souvenir.

When we arrived back in Oaxaca City, we stopped to catch a late lunch/early dinner at a place called Café Olla. Unlike La Primavera, this restaurant was delicious. I’d love to go back there again.

The last stop of the day was at Benito Juarez’s house. There we learned about the history of Mexico, the time of his presidency and the political issues in his time, and what it might have been like to be living in the 1800s.

I really enjoyed today and the last three stops were my favorite so far in Oaxaca.

Day 3
After a lazy morning in which Harrison and I watched Despicable Me (as you can see, we’re really stocking up on movie time), we left for an art walk. With me as navigator, we went to an art museum with really weird art. I prefer the galleries.

Next, we were supposed to go to a bagel store, but it was closed, so instead we went farther down the block to a gallery. In this gallery, we saw a full sized lion made completely out of twigs.

Then, on our search for lunch, we walked to an artisan store consisting of the works of 80 families. My favorite piece was a skull, that was enlarged, and was painted with a desert landscape.

The next stop, that all four of us were excited for, was lunch. This restaurant specialized in vegetarian options. I had a vegetable crepe with cheese that was DELICIOUS, Dad had a stir-fry, Harrison had an amazing veggie burger, and Mom had the vegetarian menu combo option.

We then left for a museum with prehistoric art. The museum was set in an old colonial house. The art was a collection of an old famous painter named Rufino Tomayo. I felt that I’d already seen enough prehistoric artwork and that this museum was a bit of a waste of time.

We walked to another artisan shop that was made up of 300 women’s artwork. There were dresses, tin decorations, and the black pottery we learned about yesterday.

After we’d been told to check out this mescal shop, we followed Dad there. My parents tasted three different traditional mescals, and all four of us tasted the cooked agave, the plant from which mescal is made. Harrison and I also got to play with the owner’s dogs, Tesla, a male border collie, and Poopa, a female black German Sheppard. The coolest part about this shop was that we got to taste grasshoppers. They were salty, spicy, and crunchy. IMG_9646

Now we are about to leave for a restaurant that we have a reservation for. It’s supposed to be very good.

Day 4
Day 4. Starting off with Harrison as navigator, we drove to a bookstore, but sadly, it was closed. After stopping off at a coffee shop, we drove to a town known for its artisan works. There we went into many different shops looking for something for my parents to get. I really liked the hummingbirds in the flowers. They ended up getting a three-headed dragon with bright, vibrant colors. Then we went across the street and got presents for our friends in California. We wanted to get unpainted wood animals and acrylic paints, but that would’ve been a big investment.

After a quick lunch in the car, we drove off down a narrow road that ran through a river. Following, or going in, the river was going to take us to a place called Monte Alban. IMG_9663 On the way, a car, while it was passing us on this narrow road (if you could call it a road), broke down while towing another car. After this, we’d realized that we’d gotten lost. After a lot of confusion (and laughter), we finally reached Monte Alban.

Monte Alban is an old Zapotec city with very famous ruins much like the Mayan’s. Here, we saw temples, pyramids, tombs, tunnels, and residential areas. IMG_9679The Monte Alban civilization was very advanced in that they flattened out ground, dug into hills, came up with a calendar, clock, and writing system, and were said to be the first civilization to have written.

After dropping the car back at the apartment, we went to dinner at a very good pizza restaurant. There were incredible pizzas and pastas.

I enjoyed the ruins a lot because I love learning about the way people lived long ago. I always wonder what people in a thousand years from now will think when they look at our ruins.

Day 5
After getting into the car at 11:00 and listening to my parents yell, we left for another town with many artisan woodcarvings and went to a place that gave a demonstration of how they were made. The cool thing about this shop was that the paintings were of small Zapotec symbols made with natural paints. We got to see them carve the pieces, mix the paint, fix the pieces, and paint the pieces. Harrison even got to carve a turtle. IMG_9759 My parents bought an armadillo painted with green, red, orange, yellow, white, and black. The process to make it would have been long because it takes two weeks to carve a piece, nine months to dry the wood, probably a week to fix and sand it, and five weeks to paint it.

We left this shop at 3:00 and went to a place where women make woven goods and sell them. They used a special method called back-strap weaving by using a loom called a back-strap loom. IMG_9788 We got to view their gallery and watch them weave. They even let us try to weave!

Having committed to be back at the hotel by 6:00 and it being 4:30, we had to hurry to pick up groceries, go to the bank, pick up mescal at two places, and get back.

We have now been at the hotel for an hour, having successfully run all our errands and gotten back by the right time (early, in fact). Now getting hungry, I can’t wait to go and eat something good for our last night in Oaxaca.

Day 6
Today was supposed to be the day that we drove home, but obviously there had to be some distractions.  The first stop on the way out of Oaxaca was at the weavers.  This place was known for its woven tapestries and demonstrations.  Here we learned how they spun the wool, dyed the yarn, and wove the blankets and tapestries.  I got to spin some wool (which was very hard), but wanted to try to make some dyes.  My parents ended up getting a tapestry/rug of the tree of life.
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We then left to go to a place called Mitla, also known for its ruins with stone mosaics.  Here we went through multiple tunnels, saw the amazing stone work, and even ventured into some tombs!

We needed to check some things using the internet, so we stopped at a gas station.  By the time we left, it was four o’clock and going on a seven hour drive through a really windy road was unrealistic.  So instead we went to a town up it the mountains on a ridge and got a cabin there (with a fireplace!).

Going to Oaxaca was a wonderful experience and I’d love to look forward to many more of these inland trips.


-Danielle, back in Huatulco

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Update: What we’ve been doing, where we’ve been, and where we’re going

IMG_9531 Since we last posted a blog, we continued with visitors – our last set for a while – being my mother in law Fagel and my 7-year-old niece Hannah.  We had a great time with them, heading to a couple of anchorages in the 12 bays of Huatulco (pronounced Wha–TOOL-Koh).  We spent a couple of nights each at anchor at Chacacual and La India beaches, and then at Cacalutta, which was by far our favorite and most private.  We swam to the beach several times, went for beach walks, did yoga on the beach and on the boat, snorkeled a lot, and, of course, ate well!  We also managed to spend a day actually sailing, and a day at some recently discovered ruins of a Zapotec city from around 300 B.C. to A.D. 1500, called Copalita, where we also got a great view from a look-out point high up on a cliff.  We had some great bonding time:  each of us with Hannah, and each of us with Bobie/mom/Fagel.  It was sad to see them go.

Within 24 hours of their departure, however, we rented a car and drove the eight hours to the gorgeous colonial city of Oaxaca (pronounced Wah-HA-kah). The kids have written a blog about their trip, as required by their teacher, especially seeing as how they were going on five weeks of school break.  Each day after touring in and around Oaxaca, they would get back to the hotel room and journal about their respective days.  Those blogs will be posted shortly following this one.  I will of course supplement their blogs a bit, with photos and a summary.  It was truly an incredible trip, and has given us another idea of how to spend the remaining 8 months of our adventure.

If you’ve been following our blog, you’ll know that for quite some time we’ve been angsting (not a verb but should be) about whether to go south into Central America, head to the South Pacific, or stay in Mexico.  We’ve nixed Central America due to (a) no wind, (b) Costa Rica being relatively unfriendly for cruisers, (c) needing to be out of there in May when the rains and bugs start, (d) not having a solution regarding what we do with the boat at the end, as shipping it back is very expensive, and motoring it back would be very uncomfortable, long and fuel-costly.  So then we became sure we’d go to the South Pacific, a place we’ll likely never get to by plane on a regular vacation, and a place whose ecosystem is perhaps the richest in the oceans but is slowly being deteriorated.  Our issue with this is that we’d need more than one cruising season, and Danielle very much wants to be back at school with friends in September.  With this deadline, we’d be doing drive-by cruising, and then, of course, there’s the issue of what to do with the boat.  We understand there is a market in Australia for our boat, but again, the deadline makes it difficult to get there, get set up with a broker, and then just leave.  Unless we meet other kid boats heading to the South Pacific that will keep Danielle happy, this option is not looking good.  And that needs to be determined by early March in order to cross the Pacific shortly after that.  And get the boat ready for the long three week plus passage before then.

So once in Oaxaca, we realized how much we enjoy the land trips.  It then became clear:  We could stay in Mexico, do a few more land trips, and make it back to California with the boat in time to start school in September.  We are quite excited about this prospect in fact.  But of course, a cruiser’s plans are written in the sand at low tide.  I wouldn’t be surprised if our plans change a few dozen more times before we return home.

-Barbara, written while anchored in Puerto Angel

A Math Problem

We recently had our friend Bob Rebitzer and his daughters Elana and Maya visit us over New Year’s week while we were in Huatulco.  Elana had a school assignment/competition that she needed to complete which required her to interview someone to see how they use complex math in their everyday job.  It turns out that she wanted to interview me!  She just informed us that her write up won first prize in her math class for most interesting use of math on the job!  Her teacher read it aloud while adding imaginary details about fending off sharks!  She agreed to share her write up which follows below.

Michael Mitgang and his family live on a boat. Every day, they use high level math, sometimes in order to save their lives. This happened a few weeks ago, as they were crossing from Mazatlan, Mexico, to Huatulco, Mexico. Michael was worried about how much fuel they had left and the reader was not giving accurate readings. If they ran out of fuel, they would either start drifting, which could get them miles off track, or have to sail the rest of the way, which would slow down the speed of the boat. That could have made the journey much longer than they were prepared for.

Michael checked the engine hours on both the port and starboard engines, which tell you how far they have traveled (like an odometer on a car). He also measured the amount of fuel left with a dowel and ruler, by dipping into the tank. Using that, and a few other pieces of information, he was left with these categories for a table.

Port Engine Hours Star Engine Hours Change in hours since last meas-urement. Inches of fuel left in tank Change in Inches Avg. RPM Hours per inch Est. # of hours left in tank Avg. Speed Amount of miles of fuel left

By filling in this table, Michael used algebra when he found the amount of miles of fuel left (X hours times Y speed equals miles of fuel left). Using that method, Michael could tell whether or not they had enough fuel left in the tank.

However, there was another problem.

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The tank was shaped like this, so there were two categories of inches. The first was the amount of gallons of fuel per inch used when draining from only the taller cube. The second was the amount of gallons used when draining from both cubes. The difference between the two inches was substantial, greater than two full gallons per inch, so it turned out to be important to know the different drainage rates between the two types of inches. To solve this problem, Michael had to use geometry, while finding the total amount of gallons.

As a further problem, Michael and his family had no internet access at the time, and they didn’t know how many cubic inches were in a gallon. To find the amount of square inches in a gallon, Michael had to first convert inches to centimeters and gallons to liters (because he knew how many cubic centimeters were in a milliliter), and then convert back into gallons.

Every day, the Mitgang-Gottesman family faces similarly important problems, many of which having to do with high level math.

Michael, Anchored in Acapulco

Heading North

We've been without internet for some time now but have a bunch of blog posts with photos ready to go once we get some. In the meantime, we've left Huatulco, our furthest point south. Since leaving on Saturday, we stopped for a couple of nights in Puerto Angel on our way north, and are now on passage to either Acapulco (estimated arrival at around 5 p.m. today Thursday January 27) or all the way through to Zihuatenajo on Friday. We'll see how we feel as we go.

-Barb
16 degrees 7.07 minutes North
98 degrees 22.82 minutes West
Somewhere along the Pacific coast of Mexico, approx. 100 miles south of Acapulco and 8 miles offshore

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Tuesday, January 4, 2011

In the Spirit of Cruising

One amazing thing about cruisers is that everyone helps each other.  Typical example is George’s car.  It doesn’t matter that it is 25 years old with 196,000 original miles, takes  several tries to start it, sputters like it is dying when you turn the ignition off, and the roof vinyl has been ripped right off.  George has given us free reign of his car anytime we need it, like for groceries, bringing in laundry or picking up guests at the airport. He handed over the keys to me after having met me for only 5 minutes.  And this wasn't the first time that a cruiser has lent us a car before having exchanged more than a few words.

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In return, Michael spent hours fixing George’s computer, saving him what would likely have been hundreds of dollars.  Again, not the first time Michael has done that for a cruiser.

But that’s just what cruisers do.

-Barb (on a blogging roll!)
Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico

Monday, January 3, 2011

More Bumper Car Photos

One night last week we ventured into the local fairgrounds and took over the bumper cars with Aunty Sandi, Uncle Paul, and cousins Hailey, Marlee and Russell. One’s true colors seem to come out when put in an aggressive situation.  Photos courtesy of my sister-in-law Sandi Mandel.

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-Barb in Hautulco

Great end to 2010; Sleeping Away 2011

The last couple of weeks of 2010 have been a true vacation for us.  We’ve hosted two of our three sets of visitors in Huatulco.  The first set included my sister-in-law Sandi, her husband Paul, and their three kids Hailey, Marlee and Russell.  IMG_9419
We spent time on the beaches around Huatulco, including a day at the Dreams Resort with bungee jumping, rock climbing and hobee catting, and a day ATV’ing.  We did an afternoon outing on the boat and went into town a couple of the nights and managed to have a rip-roaring time as we took over the bumper cars at the local fair. We spent a lot of time at the house they rented overlooking the ocean, and ate well!  There was some good cousin bonding time, and I can spend hours talking with Sandi – especially about healthy eating, as she has launched a new career as a holistic nutritionist.  Not only is she exceptionally knowledgeable and passionate about it, but she has a knack with people which serves her well.

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IMG_9457Great excitement came on the last morning when a swarm of bees came closer and closer to the pool at their house.  We all holed ourselves up in Sandi and Paul’s room with our snacks and books and games, and hung out there as Sandi emailed the property manager who promptly sent a bee exterminator.  It’s those unexpected ordeals that make spontaneous bonding so fulfilling.


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  Next came our friend Bob and his kids Elana and Maya.  They visited with us last year as well with wife/mother/friend Mimi, who passed away this past July.  While we spent lots of time talking about Mimi, the visit was in no way sombre.  In fact we had a great time – swimming at anchor in one of the many bays around Huatulco, another day at Dreams, and celebrating New Years with a raging game of Mexican Train while watching the fireworks practically from a front row seat aboard out boat.  IMG_9498Danielle especially benefitted from some good close friend time.  




IMG_9463All four kids as a group interacted beautifully together.




Elana’s bat mitzvah was in December, and Danielle and I were holding out until as late as the Wednesday before in the hopes we could go up for it, but because of our delays in Mazatlan, there was no way we could swing it (we watched via live videocam though).  We celebrated it again with them on the last night they were here with cake and candles.

My first day of 2011 was spent in bed.  I never drink alcohol, other than a light beer here and there, but on New  Year’s Eve I indulged in a little Amaretto on ice.  I heavily paid for it on New Year’s Day, though, so have sworn off alcohol again until maybe…. hmmmm… the next time. 

Today, January 2, 2011, I started off right: protein smoothie, 90 minutes of yoga, and then, WHAM. We found a zen-shattering leak in a water hose and spent the rest of the day emptying our food lockers and drying everything out.  Projects always seem to expand, so we also cleaned out the bilges, and dusted and vaccumed and brought in our laundry in preparation for our next guests.  We had over 40 kilos of laundry - that’s about 90 lbs!  We’ll finish the cleaning job tomorrow, hopefully with some time left to relax at the beach before our next guest arrives on the 4th (my mother-in-law Fagel).

Wishing you all a happy and healthy New Year filled with fulfillment and adventure!

Barb
Bahia Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca

Monday, December 27, 2010

It’s Time to Address the Stick

IMG_9454Just before our guests arrive, we send them a document of what to expect living aboard our boat. We do this to prepare them, and also so that they do not get overwhelmed with all the ‘rules’ once aboard.  After all, our lifestyle is a bit different than most people’s, even though for us it’s become our normal (although I sure would love a nice long and relaxing bath!).

 

Of our ‘rules’, no topic gets more comments from, and creates more anxiety for, our guests than the toilet.  No subtopic creates more angst than the dreaded ‘stick’.  In fact, our current visitors, who have rented a house while they are here, have sworn to high heaven that they will not be going to the bathroom on the boat.  And for the most part, they’ve lived up to their promise.  Unfortunately for us, that has meant less time on the boat than we would have otherwise wanted, and only one of their kids has been ‘brave’ enough to sleep over here. We have insisted it’s really no big deal.  Other guests have done it.  On the other hand, it’s created a lot of laughs.

 

Here’s what triggers the anxiety, directly from our ‘Welcome Guests’ document (and note particularly item #3):

 

Toilets: Boat toilets (called “heads”) are very sensitive, and any repairs are very difficult and expensive.

1. NO TOILET PAPER OR ANY FOREIGN ITEMS IN THE HEAD. Throw all toilet paper in the garbage can located under the sink. For very soiled toilet paper, zip lock bags are also provided under the sink. If any toilet paper accidentally gets into the toilet, DO NOT FLUSH – please fish it out with the wood stick beside the head and throw it into the garbage can.  Do not throw anything else into the toilets either, including hair, q-tips, cotton balls, etc.  These items will damage the macerator, which is similar to the blade in a blender, and repairs can be expensive.

2. To flush, hold down the flush button until you see the water becoming clear again. If it takes more than 10 seconds, stop, wait a few seconds, and try again. If it is not flushing, let us know. Any waste left in the toilet begins to smell quickly, especially since it is mixed with the salt water used by the toilets. With each flush, pour about a tablespoon of vinegar into the toilet (vinegar is located in each bathroom), which helps with the smell as well as to keep the toilet bowl and pipes clean.

3. If your ‘poop’ is too large or hard to go down, use one of the wooden sticks to break it up before you flush, then use a baby wipe (located in each bathroom) to wipe off the stick. Replace the stick in the plastic zip lock bag and throw the wipe in the garbage can.

4. The tanks hold only 15 gallons of water. Once full, you will hear the toilet’s overflow spilling into the water after you’ve finished flushing. Let us know right away if this happens.

5. If there are ANY problems at all, please let us know right away.

6. Our rule: you dirty the toilet, you clean it – cleaning supplies are located in each bathroom.

7. Unless we are underway in heavy seas, keep your bathroom hatch (window) open to ventilate your bathroom.

8. When we are at a dock, please use the bathrooms on shore whenever possible.

The wooden stick happens to be one of those paint store sticks used to stir paint.  For the first time, my brother-in-law Paul questioned why these sticks were not disposable.  I had to think.  Well, we have three bathrooms, so that makes for a lot of sticks.  On the other hand, not every poop, nor everyone’s poop, requires stick assistance.  Perhaps we should be writing our names on the stick so that you only have to touch your own sh-t-stick?  In fact, that is the reality given that each of my kids has his/her own bathroom, and between Michael and I, only one of us (and I won’t say who) ever requires the use of the stick (as a result of having borne children).  We’ve never had a problem with the re-use of the stick.  After all, this trip is partially about leaving a smaller footprint on this planet.  It’s the second R in the triple R’s to save our world. But what of our guests?   Paul has a point.  Do guests want to be sharing our sh-t-sticks?  I certainly wouldn’t, even if they are family. 

 

This week, we’ve gone out to a paint store here in Huatulco and acquired new sh-t-sticks, and these are even plastic!!  Not great for the environment, but more hygienic for guests.  And we don’t want to scare any more of them off.

 

Some other interesting notes about the toilets:  Not only do we put vinegar into the toilets with each flush to help with the smell and to keep the bowl clean (someone told me she uses Polident to keep her porcelain bowl clean – cruisers are so resourceful!) but about once a week we pour a couple of tablespoons of oil down there as well.  This helps keep the mechanism working well.  It’ll make you think twice next time you ask for that oil and vinegar dressing on your salad, no?

 

When the toilet’s holding tank reaches its maximum of 15 gallons and overflows into the water, we have to stop using that head as it is illegal to dump waste into the marina waters, and it’s just plain rude to do so in a beautiful anchorage.  This is why when we are in a marina, we use the bathrooms on shore as much as possible, as this gives the holding tanks a longer life. In the States and Canada, there are services that come and suck out the waste from the holding tanks, and there are pump out stations as well.  However, these are unheard of here in Mexico (and I understand in the rest of the world).  So the only option for getting rid of waste is to dump it by opening the valves to the holding tanks when you are at least three miles off-shore.  The kids have a great time watching the water as we are underway off-shore and empty the tanks.   I for one am completely grossed out by it. 

 

We have never held our guests to the “You dirty it, you clean it” rule.  However, I am proud to say that both my children clean their own toilets, a skill that will come in handy one day I am sure.

 

And we have had our share of head breakdowns.  Like when the macerator in one of the heads was making weird noises, like it was chewing up sand.  We think some barnacles got up into the through-holes and were gradually degrading the macerator.  Michael decided to take apart the whole thing, including the plumbing tubes leading into the holding tank.  The resulting shower was not pretty.  Or the time Harrison dropped a tiny piece of Lego down his toilet and Michael had to fish it out using one of his McGyver methods.  Since then, we’ve been talking about adding No Lego Playing While On The Toilet to our rule list. 

 

-Barb

Signing off from Marina Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca

Sunday, December 19, 2010

Exciting and Safe Arrival in Huatulco

After three days and three nights motoring (and this time a little more sailing), we've arrived, and are now docked, at Marina Chahue in Huatulco.

With all things cruising, there is always something interesting that happens -- but its how you deal with it that really matters.  This time, after our delayed departure from Z-Town due to an engine alternator repair, we headed off down the coast.  Around 6 am the morning of Day Two (yesterday), cruising along using our starboard engine at about 8 knots, the engine just all of a sudden went into neutral.  Why you might ask?  It turns out that our throttle cable snapped!  I think this happened either when the alternator was repaired or when we completed our 1,000 hour service.  I am guessing that one of the mechanics must have leaned on the part of the cable that connects to the throttle on the engine which caused it to be fatigued and then, over time while underway, snap.

Now, its not just that we have to get it fixed (I tried while underway to no avail) as we have guests coming to visit this week and next, but equally, if not more importantly, we had to bring the boat into a narrow marina entrance and safely to a dock using one engine.  You might think:  "What's the big deal? You've got another engine."  Catamarans are very maneuverable with two engines that are separated from each other by about 20 feet.  This allows them to be easily controlled and catamarans are actually easier to handle then single engine mono-hulls.  The problem is that when only one engine is working and you are moving slowly (like in a marina), the boat actually just wants to go in a circle. (As a side note, when we are motoring, we generally run only one engine at a time, as at higher speeds, the boat moves straight ahead; using the two engines does not give us significantly more speed but only uses more fuel.)  So we had some special planning to deal with as we approached a marina we had never been into before and also did not know what dock we were going to because the marina office was closed today (Sunday).

Before we entered the channel entrance to the marina, we fully prepared the boat for docking.  We had dock lines on all corners and midship, and fenders on all sides of the boat.  We then put our dinghy into the water which we planned to use for assisted steerage.  Danielle and Harrison got in the dinghy with a VHF radio and took instruction from us over the radio as we practiced maneuvering the boat by pushing on the starboard bow with the dinghy's engine in full throttle to push us to the left.  Then we did the same on the port bow to push us to the right; all this in strong currents and choppy seas.  Danielle and I then dinghied into the marina to check out the lay of the land before coming in with Whatcha Gonna Do.   Barb remained aboard with Harrison and maneuvered the boat to keep her place in the building seas.  It was actually Barb's first time handling the boat at sea by herself.

After getting the lay of the land, Danielle and I returned to the boat and she and Harrison dinghied into the marina in front of us.  We were informed by a fellow boater that as one enters the marina, it is imperative to line up the range markers that are on land to make sure you are lined up properly in the middle of the narrow channel. We lined up, watched for any swell and began to make our way in.  Now, as sailors know, if you are moving, you generally have better steerage and as such, I decided to go slightly faster into the entrance in an effort to have better control.  Barb felt that we were coming in too fast but we needed the speed.  We made it smoothly into the marina and began to line up for docking.  Danielle came around to the side in the dinghy and pushed out our bow so we could line up the boat parallel to the dock and then gently  push her in .  With the benefit of the wind pushing us onto the dock and Danielle's dinghy prowess, we came smoothly to the dock where a couple of people grabbed our dock lines and tied us up.

All said, it could not have gone any better.  Our advance preparation and confidence gained, in large part due to sailing and instruction at OCSC in Berkeley, were critical to a safe and smooth docking.  Now we just need to get our throttle repaired (hopefully quickly) as we have guests arriving on Tuesday who, I know, will want to go sailing.

Michael (safely docked at Marina Chahue, Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico)

Saturday, December 18, 2010

In A Group or On Your Own

To many people, there's only one way to get an education-conventional school. Homeschooling is another option, but both have their advantages and disadvantages.

In a regular school, there are many other students so kids have the opportunity to work with partners and in groups. There are certified teachers and set curriculums so you always know that you're learning the "right" things and are up to your state standards. School allows children to socialize and to always be with people their age. Parents also have time to work without needing to deal with their kids.

Along with conventional school also come disadvantages. Most students complain about homework and how much of their free time is taken away, making them form their lives around schoolwork. You always have long, busy days and then little freedom after school. Students also have to move at the same pace of the class, even if they're ahead or behind.

Studies have shown that students learn more and better in smaller classes because they get more individual attention. Imagine if there was only one child in each class. The student's needs would be the teacher's needs and focus would be centered on one person. That's what homeschooling is like. Many parents and children say that after they'd been homeschooled and went back to school, they were ahead. Kids also experience more free time because there's no homework. The length of their school day also varies. Going back to school may be hard for homeschooled students because they would have loads of homework, but they would have learned how to do school in three to four hours, so homework might be easier. Independence is another skill learned by homeschooled kids because homeschooling is mostly independent study. That factor could help in college. Parents also feel closer to their children because they see what their child is learning and spend more time with them. In the winter, you could take your child skiing and not worry about them missing key subjects. If you are homeschooling on a trip, you have a flexible schedule and can take days off to do day trips.

But homeschooling is not perfect either. Socially, children miss out on working with others and interacting with kids their age. Students may be very bored of only seeing their family's faces and lonely without friends. There are no field trips to museums or other places that you can go on without pushing back the end- of-year date. Parents might worry that their child is not getting the right education without certified teachers. Without an ending time, days may go until dinnertime if students are distracted that day.

I feel very lucky to experience both in my life, because they each teach important life skills. But, you be the judge.

-Danielle
Off the Pacific coast of Mexico
125 miles north of Huatulco

Friday, December 17, 2010

Books Books Books

Perhaps one of the biggest gifts of this adventure is having the time to read. I brought a bunch of books with me that had been sitting on my nightstand for years, and its not surprising that once I started them, I couldn't get through them. I quickly left them at the various book exchanges along the way. It's also not surprising that the most memorable books for me have been related to cruising or to Mexico. A must read for anyone setting out on this kind of trip is The Care and Feeding of Sailing Crew by Lin Pardey. Not only does it go through the basic care and feeding of crew, but it also has explanations of refrigeration, showers/baths, and great tips on provisioning (including how much you need of each type of produce for how long per person, and what stays best for how long unrefrigerated). Another must read is The Motion of the Ocean by Janna Cawrse Esarey, which very realistically describes relationships at sea. The author took a two year honeymoon sailing to the South Pacific, and writes very honestly about depression, sex, and the highs and lows of being together 24/7. It reads very much like an Eat, Pray, Love saga.
On our last passage I finished the 646 page small type Mexico by James Mitchener. Loved it. Although written by an American in the person of an American/Mexican, it gave me a much better appreciation for the vast and deep history of Mexico from the first inhabitants to the Spanish conquest to present day politics. My dear friend Dennise who grew up in Mexico City remembers liking the book, but does caution me that it is written by an American after all. It is interesting that she says that. I had believed that being on this trip in Mexico, we would get to know the Mexican people but as hospitable and helpful as they are, I get a sense that it is a closed culture that is difficult to break into unless you are 'one of them'. I'll have to ask Dennise more about this.
Our ditch bag (i.e. the bag that contains our emergency paraphenalia in case we have to abandon ship) contains a copy of Adrift: 76 Days Lost At Sea by Stephen Callaghan given to us by our friend Neil Blecherman, and is another must read if you are to undertake offshore sailing. Not only is it incredibly well written and an inspiring adventure story, it also contains intricate illustrations from how to lay out your life raft to making your own solar still for drinking water to rigging up a spear gun. I'm sure I'll be posting more on Emergency Preparedness at some point and at that time will certainly be referring to this book.
On this passage, I finished The Help by Kathryn Stockett. I couldn't put it down, and found myself dreaming in Southern drawls and dialects of the 'help'. Or shall I say, "Law, I been done and dreamin o the South"... Excellent and much recommended - especially to my book club friends.
I now have only 20 more titles on my nightstand to go through. As I get to new book exchanges, I have to hold myself back from claiming even more. Although I had planned to begin reading The Sea of Cortez by John Steinbeck next (before we get further away from there), my priorities have had to shift somwhat as Danielle has just finished The Secret Life of Bees and has asked me to read it so we can discuss it. She is reading so quickly that she's taken to re-reading some of her books. I think I'd shoot myself if I ever had to do that. Maybe that's the reason I have 20 unread titles by my bed?
Harrison has also almost finally gotten the reading bug. It's been tougher to find titles that he likes but when he finds one, he'll read for hours. The blessing of not having TV! Michael too has been reading more than I've ever seen him. His choices are usually spy novels a la John Grisham, or else the titles look more like Diesel Mechanics for the Sailor. And thank goodness for that.
-Barbara
Somewhere on the Pacific Coast of Mexico between Zihuatenajo and Acapulco
17 degrees 2.343 minutes North
100 degrees 48.312 minutes West
PS. As we are heading towards Acapulco and with the sun rising in the east, it is right in front of our boat. It is interesting to note how much we are actually traveling east while heading "down" the Pacific coast.
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Thursday, December 16, 2010

Zihuatenajo – Take 2 -- UPDATE

Well, the alternator is fixed – AGAIN.  Hopefully, this time for good.  I went to watch them repair it and to see what type of parts were put in.  Not that I am a mechanic, but it always pays to closely oversee any work done in Mexico.  That said, it is impressive the number of mechanical shops, metal bending shops and other industrial type services here in Mexico.  There is a culture here of not throwing things out but rather trying to repair them – work with the limited resources available.  I would not be surprised that if I had wanted to get the alternator repaired in the US, the mechanic (at least most) would just say it needs to be replaced, rather than rebuilt – not that at the end of the day, I may still need to have mine replaced if this repair does not hold up.

So, we are now on our way, about 9 – 10 hours delayed (not too bad), to Huatulco and hopefully we will still arrive by the 19th.  The sun is setting and we are about to sit down for another of Barb’s excellent meals and a nighttime sail. 

Michael (17 degrees 29.8 minutes N by 101 degrees 26.9 minutes W)

Zihuatenajo – Take 2

With excitement this morning we raised the hook in Zihuatenajo Bay off Playa Ropa and headed out for our 3-4 day passage to Huatulco, where we are planning on meeting Michael’s sister Sandi and her family, and later our friends Bob, Elana and Maya.  About an hour out, we realized our alternator is not working.  We spent 4 days at Marina Ixtapa (the next bay over) getting it fixed when we first arrived here, and we thought it had been all taken care of.  Without the alternator charging our batteries when we are motoring (which unfortunately it looks like we will be doing lots of for this passage), the only way to charge up our batteries is with the generator.  Generator on equals using fuel.  Motoring equals fuel.  Three to four days at sea with the motor on equals too much fuel.  We cannot spare any extra.

About an hour out, we decided to turn around and come back to Z-town (what we gringos call it when we don’t want to try to spell it).  Fortunate for us, we were able to get a hold of the mechanic who worked on the alternator last week and he came out to Zihuatenajo to see what is going on.  We hope we’ll be heading out again tomorrow morning with a working alternator – even though it’s a Friday.  There is a sailor’s superstition that one should never begin a passage on a Friday, so we’ll say that we simply began today and will continue tomorrow.

This is not a bad place to be laid up.  This area is tropical, and therefore much greener than the landscapes further north that we have become accustomed to.  The town itself used to be a fishing village, and we enjoy sitting on the fisherman’s boardwalk watching thousands of pounds of fish being loaded up every day onto carts attached to the front of  bicycles.  Today, the town has a nice mixture of local and tourist amenities, and as a gringo, we are not overrun with time share salesmen or people pushing their necklaces and bracelets onto us.  We had perhaps the best meal yet in Mexico at the Porto di Mare, right on the boardwalk here.  Even more surprising than the meal was the service, which never seems to meet American standards very well anywhere else that we’ve been.  Danielle and I went to a yoga class, the kids have been catching up on homeschooling (we are still 10 lessons behind where we were this same time last year) before our guests arrive, we’ve been swimming a bit and exploring the town.

The lay-up here does put us a bit behind schedule though.  We were hoping to get to Huatulco by the 19th to get oriented and clean the boat after a long passage, before the Mandels arrive.  Hopefully, we’ll only be a day behind.  I am relieved we had built in some buffer time.

-Barb
Zihuatenajo Bay 

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Anchored in Beautiful Bay outside Ztown

We arrived at noon today in Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo after 76 hours of sailing (actually mostly motoring) from Mazatlan. That's a distance of approximately 426 miles! We hope to be here for about a week and then will head on to Huatulco (with a possible overnight stop in Acapulco depending if we know anyone there).
We are currently anchored in a beautiful bay outside the Ixtapa Marina where we will go into tomorrow morning to refuel and check out that town. After likely one overnight at anchor followed by one night in the marina we will spend the rest of our time anchored in Zihuatanejo Bay.
Its a busy little anchorage we are in. Three other sailboats are anchored and a bunch of fishing and tourist boats, not to mention the jet skis, are zooming around. It looks like there are about three palapa restaurants on shore and, when we anchored, a panga (a small fishing boat) came up to our boat. It turns out it had aboard a waiter from one of the restaurants offering to take delivery orders or to take us to shore. Looks like competition is working well even in Ixtapa. I wonder if they offer 30 minutes or free? Look out Dominos!
Michael (Isla Ixtapa, 17 degrees, 41.0 minutes N by 101 degrees 39.5 minutes W)
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